Micra Turbo

Nissan Micra K11 Turbo Kits

Here at GizFab, turbo kits for K11 Micras are one of our specialties. Because we get asked at least 4 times a day on what the kits cost, I have taken the time to compile this page, highlight some information you need to know regarding turboing your micra and the costs of the parts we can supply.

PLEASE, take the time to read this page before contacting us as your answers will more than likely be below.

We build all our kits in house on our development Micra to ensure excellent fitment. Kits are then removed and shipped to you. There is no need to drop your car off with us – Unless you prefer us to build and install the kit on your car for you (additional labour costs apply)

We can build and supply just the manifold or a complete kit consisting of the Manifold, downpipe, front pipe, intercooler and welded pipework, modified sump, hoses right down to the specific oil and water feeds for the chosen turbo.

You can order as little or as much of a kit, please see below for individual pricing.

Turbo Manifold
(Comes with all gaskets, nuts and studs required)
Log Style – £280
Tubular – £600 (EWG Port +£80)

Down & Front Pipe
 (comes with gasket and clamps)
2” – £200
2.5” – £270

Oil Feed and Drain Kit
(Consisting of adapter for engine for turbo oil feed, new sump  with oil drain. complete with all required gaskets, seals, clamps and hose – please note, the sump uses sealant and not a gasket – sealant not included)

Toyota CT Turbo Units will incur an additional £50 charge if top mounted due to the additional work and custom parts required for the turbo oil feed and drains.

Turbo Water Feed Kit
(Consists of all required unions, washers, joiners, hoses and clamps required)

Intercooler Kit
(Consisting new modified intercooler, welded hard tubes with all required hoses, clamps, mounting bracket and hardware.)

(Price on request – please note the turbo does not have warranty if not installed by us)


 What engine does the kit fit?

The kit will fit the 1.0L, 1.3L and 1.4L Engines in both distributor and coil pack variants as the engine unit itself is physically identical across all models.

How much extra power will it make?

The golden question…That depends on the health of your engine, the manifold type, the turbo selected, engine management/ ECU and the quality of the map. Because of all these variables, we cannot give you an exact figure.

What Turbo do you recommend?

That depends completely on what you want to achieve with the car. If you are after a small power increase, something like a GT15 Turbo would spool quickly but suffer top end. If you wanted a higher power output, consider something along the lines of a T25 or TF035 Turbo.

What “PSI” will the engine take?

Completely irrelevant for the most part. GT15 at 5 PSI is completely different to a T25 at 5 PSI. This is due to the size of the compressor housing. If this confuses you…Consider doing some online research.

How much power will the standard engine take?

The weak point when boosting the nissans CG Engine is weak ring lands. Ultimately cylinder pressure will crack the ringlands regardless of the quality of the map. Based on the 1.3L, we would consider 140-150bhp a “Safe” power output. Anymore depends on the quality of the ECU Map and health of the engine. You could be sacrificing engine life for additional power.

Its worth noting. That Automatic CG13’s have a Semi-Closed deck. all other engines are open deck, manual and automatic. The Semi-Closed deck would be desirable for boost as the cylinder walls are stronger. However this difference would be mostly negligible, this does make the Automatic CG13 engine the strongest engine available. The issue however, there are no markings on the engines to  suggest they are Semi-Closed deck without removing the cylinder head to inspect.

200bhp+ is achievable…But at the cost of the installation of forged pistons and rods to keep the build reliable.

Will this fit with A/C?

Yes…But we will need to make the kit on your car.

Will this work on the standard ECU?

To a certain extent, yes. But to get the most benefit from your turbo conversion we recommend using an aftermarket ECU. Its worth noting the stock ECU’s way of measuring airflow, the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor tends to fail when seeing higher pressures.

What ECU do you recommend?

The more you spend, the better of an ECU you will get. The better the ECU, the more features it may have that makes tuning the engine easier.  This isn’t always the case.

If you have a distributor Model, a decent budget ECU to consider is an “ECU Masters DET3”. If you have a coil pack model, this uses a slightly more complicated Bosch motronic unit. From our testing the ECU fights any form of Piggy back ECU. So we would recommend a standalone unit.

Using an aftermarket ECU will remove the stock ECU’s weak point – the MAF Sensor. Using a much more reliable sensor in the way of a Mass Air Pressure Speed Density (MAP) Sensor. Most Micra Turbo conversions never reach their full potential due to the stock MAF Sensor. Most aftermarket ECU’s will require professional installation as the ECU Harness will need to be altered. You will also need to consider the cost of professional mapping of the ECU.

Do I need to do anything with fueling?

Yes…absolutely! As you increase the air intake to the engine, it will need more fuel. Obviously.

If you have a coilpack engine, your top mounted fuel rail makes injector choice easier as they use a typical top mounted style injector. You will most likely need to change injector plugs to suit your choice of injector and using longer fuel rail stand offs to accommodate a longer injector.

If you have a Distributor engine, you will have the older style side feed injectors. Unfortunately, there isn’t much choice of bigger injectors that fit the stock rail. We suggest either converting to a Coil pack inlet and re-pin the injector plugs. Or source a RWD SR20 Fuel Rail and injectors off a 180sx, 200SX and modify it. We can do this modification for £80.

What size injector? Depends on your power goal. Running out of fuel will melt an engine in seconds when in boost. You need to make sure you have an injector big enough but not too big. you also need to consider things such as injector cycle duty. Making sure the injector is supplying enough fuel but not working harder than it needs with plenty of duty cycle in reserve.

Whilst not essential, we recommend installing a new fuel pump. From our experience when you start to demand more than double the fuel from a pump that’s been doing the same job for 20+ years, they tend to fail. A faulty fuel pump can run the engine lean and melt the engine in seconds.

What manifold is better?

A Log manifold is good for a low-boost budget build. But will struggle to flow enough for 160hp+.

A Tubular manifold is superior to a log manifold. You will see an increase in spool, responsiveness, increase and smoother torque curve and more power. The downside of a tubular is the cost.

What Downpipe is better?

2” is good for a budget build, but will struggle to flow enough for 160bhp plus. 2.5” is better for higher powered builds

So how much is the kit?

If you went with all the base options, £1060. This price excludes the turbocharger.

You would still need to consider Fuelling, ECU and Mapping.

Do you offer a Drive In-Drive out conversion?

Yes, We can. For example, a drive-In, drive-out conversion. Fuelling Modifications, ECU Installation and Mapping on our “Base” Kit supplied with a budget turbo. £3200.


if you feel you have any questions which are not answered above? Contact us.

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